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內文摘錄
類型介紹試閱：
在書店近距離窺看台北人文風景
An up-close observation of Taipei’s cultural landscape
近幾年每到一個新城市，安頓好後的第一件事，便是立刻前往當地書店挖寶，尋找在地的旅遊書與獨立刊物，往往能夠發現主流旅遊書或是網路上找不到的資訊。無論為了什麼原因來到台北，我都相當推薦去書店逛逛，因為不管是書店風景或是出版風向，都是了解台北的最佳管道之一。
匆忙來不及查資料的旅人們，不如前往24小時營業、中英日文旅遊書都齊全的「誠品書店」（敦南店），它同時也集結了眾多台灣設計與在地農產；然而我最喜歡的仍是個性鮮明、有各自選書理念的獨立書店們如「下北?世代」、「Mangasick」與「朋丁」等。這幾家書店除了引進國外出版品外，也非常支持台灣創作，能在這裡一睹許多本土獨立刊物的風采。
近幾年獨立書店的經營與存在掀起了許多討論，文化單位也開始投入資源，獨立出版社與書店各自成立相關協會，更有拍攝計畫《書店裡的影像詩》誕生，第一季記錄了台灣40家獨立書店，有興趣可以上網欣賞https://goo.gl/pknlrH（僅中文）。
In recent years, whenever I travel to a new city, the first thing I do after settling in is visit local bookstores. There I hunt for local travel guides and independent publications that oftentimes contain information that cannot be found in mainstream travel books or on the Internet. No matter what brings you to Taipei, I highly recommend that you visit its bookstores. Looking at the landscape of the publication business through visiting these stores is one of the best ways to understand the city.
For travelers too busy to research specific bookstores to visit, I suggest the Eslite 24-Hour Bookstore (Dunnan branch). There, one can find comprehensive travel books in Chinese, Japanese, and English as well as Taiwanese design merchandise and local produce and goods. Still, my personal favorites are independent bookstores — such as Shimokitazawa Generations, Mangasick, and Pon Ding — who have vibrant characteristics and unique ideals in their curation of books. These bookstores are also very supportive of Taiwanese creators and here, one will be able to see the greatness of Taiwan’s independent publishing.
Lately, the operation and existence of independent bookstores have spurred widespread discussion. Also, cultural institutions have started to invest in the businesses. Certain independent publishers and bookstores have taken the initiative of establishing associations. There’s even a film project, “Poetries from the BookstoresImagery Poems in Bookstores,” whose first season documents 40 independent Taiwanese bookstores. Go check it out at https://goo.gl/pknlrH (only available in Chinese).
值得造訪的書店：
Bookstores worth visiting:
A1. Shimokitazawa Generations 下北?世代
選書品味獨到的台灣第一家Zine專門店
Taiwan’s first zine specialty store with a unique taste in books
台北市和平西路二段141號2樓之2
2F-2, No. 141, Section 2, Heping W Rd, Taipei City
886 2 2314 5650
Sat.-Sun. 13:00~20:00
A2. Pon Ding 朋丁
由設計師用心經營的獨立刊物與展覽空間
An independent publication and exhibition space run by designers
台北市中山北路一段53巷6號
No. 6, Lane 53, Section 1, Zhongshan N Rd, Taipei City
886 2 2537 7281
11:00~20:00 Closed on Mondays
A3. Mangasick 漫畫私倉
專營台灣、日本、香港次文化漫畫與刊物
Taiwanese, Japanese and Hong Kongese subculture manga and publications specialty store
台北市羅斯福路三段244巷10弄2號B1
B1, No. 2, Alley 10, Lane 244, Section 3, Roosevelt Rd, Taipei City
886 2 2369 9969
14:00~22:00 Closed on Wednesdays
A4. Jiu Xiang Ju Books 舊香居
值得專程前往尋寶的老牌古書店
An old-school vintage bookstore well worth the trip
台北市龍泉街81號1樓
No. 81, Longquan St, Taipei City
886 2 2368 0576
13:00~22:00 Closed on Mondays
A5. Taiuan-e-tiam 台灣e店
所有跟台灣主題相關的書籍與商品都在這
A curation of all Taiwan-related books and merchandise
台北市新生南路三段76巷6號1樓
No. 6, Lane 76, Section 3, Xinsheng S Rd, Taipei City
886 2 2362 5799
10:00~21:30
A6. VVG Thinking 好樣思維
藏在紅磚倉庫裡的各國雜貨與書籍祕境
Hidden in a brick warehouse, a secret land of goods and books from all over the world
台北市杭州北路（華山文創產業園區紅磚六合院C棟）
Hangzhou N Rd, Taipei City (Huashan 1914 Creative Park Brick Lane Bld. C)
886 2 2322 5573
12:00~21:00
特輯試閱：
特輯1： 台灣獨立音樂場景小記
Special edition 1: A brief history of Taiwan’s indie music scene
本文邀請獨立樂團「拍謝少年」的貝斯手薑薑，為大家簡介台灣獨立音樂場景發展：
1994～：從一首自創曲開始
台灣的獨立音樂（indie Music）場景大約可以追朔至1994年展演空間SCUM的開業，場地要求登台樂團至少要有一首自己的創作曲，唱片廠牌如真言社、友善的狗、魔岩等陸續推出創作型音樂人林強、伍佰…的專輯，樂團也有糯米團、五月天、脫拉庫、濁水溪公社、閃靈、1976…的百花齊放，幾個代表性的展演空間Vibe、女巫店、地下社會、河岸留言、The Wall等也漸漸為人所知。
2000～：海洋音樂祭X樂團新浪潮
下一個較大的躍進來自於2000年所舉辦的「貢寮海洋音樂祭」，相較於當時已多人參與的「春天吶喊」與「野台開唱」，海洋音樂祭有公部門資源挹注，夾帶了更多的宣傳能量，將當時逐漸嶄露頭角的音樂人如陳綺貞、Tizzy Bac、旺福、88顆芭樂籽、蘇打綠、圖騰、盧廣仲等，一舉帶上媒體版面，帶起另一波樂團浪潮。成立於2006的線上音樂平台Street Voice與2007年的Indievox，更透過網路傳遞將這股創作能量廣為發散。
2014～：音樂介入社會，佔領生活
一直以來台灣的獨立音樂創作者對於政治與社會都抱持高度的關心與參與。2014年3月18號，臺灣的大學生與公民團體共同發起佔領立法院的社會運動，抗議對於人民生活有巨大影響的《海峽兩岸服務貿易協議》，其草率的審查簽訂程序，引發約50萬人民走上街頭抗議，龐克樂團滅火器一曲為活動寫下的「島嶼天光」成為活動代表性的歌曲。隔年樂團閃靈主唱Freddy林昶佐與其他人士共同成立政黨時代力量，並於同年當選立法委員，期間所有高度參與社會運動的樂團們，將大眾對於台灣獨立音樂的認識拉到一個前所未有的高度，形成一種十分特殊的音樂介入社會現象。接下來台灣的音樂場景會如何變化，讓我們一起拭目以待。
For this special edition we have Jiang-jiang, bass player for Sorry Youth, to shed light on the development of Taiwan’s indie music.
1994～: It started from writing a song
Taiwan’s indie music harkens back to 1994, when performance space SCUM was established. SCUM required that every band who performed on the their stage have at least one song written by them. Record labels such as Truth Society Records, Friendly Dog Records, and Magic Stone Records released albums from singer-songwriters such as Lim Giong and Wu Bai. Bands like Sticky Rice, MayDay, TOLAKU, LTK Commune, Chthonic, and 1976 also flourished during this time. Consequently, performance spaces such as Vibe, Witch House, Underground Society, Riverside Live House, and The Wall became popular and even symbolic.
2000～: Music festivals and a new wave of bands
Compared to the already-popular music festivals Like Spring Scream and Formoz Festival, Ho-hai-yan Music Festival, founded in 2000, had more publicity as it was largely funded by the government. Therefore, it was able to catapult the then up-and-coming musicians — such as Cheer Chen, Tizzy Bac, Won Fu, 88 balaz, Sodagreen, Totem, and Crowd Lu — into the center of media attention; in turn, inspiring an insurgence of bands. Online music platforms Street Voice and Indievox, founded respectively in 2006 and 2007, also helped propagate this creative energy via the Internet.
2014～: When music becomes poitically involved, occupying society
Taiwan’s indie musicians have always been deeply concerned about politics and active participants of society. On the 18th of March, 2014, university students and civilian organizations launched a social movement to occupy the Legislative Yuan (Legislative Bureau) in protest against the negligent fashion in which it passed the Cross-Strait Service Trade Agreement, which would greatly impact Taiwanese people’s livelihood. Around half a million outraged people marched the streets in demonstration. Punk band Fire Ex. wrote “Island Sunrise” as the theme song of this movement — known as the Sunflower Student Movement. The following year, lead vocalist of Chthonic, Freddy Lim, along with other key figures of the Sunflower Student Movement, founded the political party — New Power Party; that same year, Lim was also elected member of the Legislative Yuan. Musicians and bands who were active participants of the student movement heightened the public’s knowledge of Taiwan’s indie music, creating a unique phenomenon in which music becomes involved in society. Now, let us wait and see how Taiwan’s music scene will evolve.
專家帶路
Follow the expert
美味的烏魚子 文／黃小黛
The Delicious Mullet Roe, by Huang Xiao Dai
黃小黛，台灣散文作家，著有《在大稻埕遇見東南亞香料》、《大稻埕廚房》、《地方回憶錄》、《散步阮台南》、《家族記憶》、《七種民宿的旅行》等書。本文她將帶領讀者從烏魚子品嚐大稻埕風情。其他文章散見：islife2013.blogspot.tw。
Huang Xiao Dai is a Taiwanese essayist and author whose works include, . In this essay she guides the readers on a journey of appreciating Dadaocheng through savoring mullet roe.
民以食為天。
以這句話做為起頭，約莫您就可了解台灣人是多麼重視吃這件事。
來我們大稻埕，我首推必要嚐上「烏魚子」這道佳餚。
烏魚子是一種以已孕雌性的烏魚卵巢及魚卵鹽漬後乾燥的魚卵加工食品。就是將捕獲的雌性烏魚開肚後取出其卵巢，漂洗乾淨後以食鹽?漬脫水去腥，然後經過曝曬、陰乾程序即成。
以前，人在台灣要吃到烏魚子，得是婚壽喜慶的辦桌或是過中國春節時，家人團聚時才吃得上的冷盤大菜。
烏魚子為金黃色澤，多半以切片呈現，沿著圓盤子中心像花辦般擺盤，佐上斜切青蒜或辛辣生白蘿蔔，也有人性喜搭配水梨與蘋果。烏魚子的口感內軟潤、外酥香，有種濃郁細滑感，搭配蘿蔔水梨們的清脆多汁，多重滋味，堪稱一絕。
料理的方法也很簡便，就是一把火、一瓶酒，火烤它。其本以鹽巴醃製，充滿海味，再添其它則顯多餘。
烏魚子專家李日勝商號老闆王麗蘋指出：「將烏魚子表面的卵膜剝除，取瓷盤，倒入高粱酒，點火引燃紙捲，把火苗導入瓷盤上的酒，燃出整盤湛藍火光，以鐵夾鉗住烏魚子，上下烘烤翻面，待表面轉為金黃色，烤出香氣後，放涼，以立面方式切成大小薄片。」她說，「因為有人愛吃，但不好意思一次拿兩片，所以整盤需要有厚有薄，才不會怠慢來客。」切片後的烏魚子佐以白蘿蔔片、青蒜、水梨或蘋果共食，風味絕佳。
有些老人家愛食烏魚子，但牙齒經不起堅硬口感，便可採酒煮方式料理使之解饞：先將高粱酒與水各半放入平底鍋內，開爐火滾後，放入烏魚子，水酒淹置一半的厚度，以中火煎煮，不時的翻面，使兩面均勻受熱。直至水酒蒸發，香味溢出時關火。烏魚子盛起，待涼後，切片食用。這樣的烹調方式使烏魚子的口感較為柔軟易咬，亦不乾扁，能讓老人家滿足口腹之欲，滿足心中的渴望。
烹飪是文明的傳承，烏魚子的烹調手法亦是大稻埕重要的歷史脈絡，也是讓您光臨台北品嚐風土滋味的必經食物。
“Food is God for the people.”
Perhaps this ancient saying can serve as an introduction to the importance of food for Taiwanese people.
When one visits Dadaocheng, I must recommend that they try the delicacy that is “mullet roe.”
Mullet roe is a dish made of salted and dried mullet roe pouch — after a female mullet is caught, the ovary is removed, cleaned, washed, and salted to rid it of odor and left to dry under the sun and then in the shade.
In the past, mullet roe was reserved for auspicious occasions such as weddings, birthday celebrations, and festivities or served cold during Chinese New Year family reunions.
Mullet roe, burnished and golden in color, is served in slices piled up into a blossoming flower on a round plate, accompanied by sliced garlic shoots and peppery raw daikon.
Preparing mullet roe is a simple task, one simply douses it in liquor and lights a fire. The salty taste of mullet roe echos that of the sea and requires no additional seasoning.
The owner of the mullet roe specialty store Li Ri Sheng Trading Company, Wang Li Ping, said to “Remove the membrane, place the roe on a porcelain plate, and pour kaoliang (sorghum liquor) over it. Light a roll of paper to introduce the fire to the liquor, allow the plate to be engulfed in blue flame and turn the roe over so that both sides are evenly roasted to a golden color. Once you are met with the fragrance of the roe, let it cool and slice it width-wise into pieces in varying thickness.” She explained that, “Some people love mullet roe but feel embarrassed to take two pieces at once. So it is important to serve the roe in large and small slices.” Roe accompanied by sliced daikon, garlic shoots, pear, and apple is even more delectable.
Some elderly people are fond of mullet roe but cannot afford to chew it, in which case cooking the roe in liquor is a good solution. Add equal parts sorghum liquor and water into a frying pan, wait till the liquid bubbles up and place the roe in the pan; the liquid should come halfway up to the roe. Cook the roe on medium heat and flip the roe over regularly to ensure that both side are evenly cooked. Turn off the heat when the liquid has evaporated and the fragrance is released. Once the roe is cooled, slice it to serve. Roe cooked in this fashion is soft, moist, and perfect for an elderly person who craves it.
Cooking is a cultural heritage and the techniques of cooking mullet roe is certainly part of the historical context of Dadaocheng. One simply has to try this authentic Taipei delicacy.
路線介紹試閱：
城西路線1：大稻埕、西門町與艋舺周邊
West Side Route 1: Dadaocheng, Ximending, and Monga (Wanhua) Area
活力十足、引領風騷百年的老城區
The vigorous and pioneering old part of town
在台北，往西才能看見歷史的軌跡，感受往日風華與庶民風情。百年前，「艋舺」與「大稻埕」是全台灣最繁榮富庶的港埠；日治時期，在此之間的「西門町」則由日人打造成時髦的娛樂區。時光流轉，隨著都市開發重心的東移，城西逐漸沒落，然而百年累積的底蘊無可取代，只要稍有火花便能再度燃燒：香火鼎盛的龍山寺，始終守護最生猛草根的艋舺；人情至重的大稻埕近年則吸引了氣質雷同的創作者與品牌遷入，重回矚目焦點；而青春氣息從來都在西門町恣意放肆，次文化於此蓬勃發展。新舊，在城西有最精采的碰撞與交融，若要見識台北的真性情，我的建議是只能一路向西。
In Taipei, the vestiges of history and experiences the glory of former days and local sentiments can all be seen on the west side. A century ago, Monga and Dadaocheng were the most prosperous ports in all of Taiwan. Ximending, while Taiwan was under Japanese rule, was developed into a fashionable entertainment area. As time elapsed, the center of Taipei’s city development shifted to the east and as a result, the west side gradually declined. Still, its century-long cultural significance and profundity cannot be replaced and at the slightest spark, it will ignite once again. Incense lit by pious believers is ever-burning at Longshan Temple; Monga was and still is home to the rawest vitality of the common people; Dadaocheng, saturated with a human touch, has recently attracted creators and brands who share similar values. Here, the new encounters the old, amalgamating into new life. I believe the only path to experiencing the true nature and sentiments of Taipei is to go to the west.
一日建議行程：
A day’s journey
9:00 「慈聖宮」前的一排老店是城裡最真心不騙的小吃攤，坐在榕樹下吃碗肉粥或豬腳麵線，享用老台北人才懂得享受的愜意中式早餐。
10:00 吃完散步去百年老店「林華泰茶行」或「林茂森茶行」買些好茶當伴手禮。
11:00 由迪化街北端逛起：有老字號糕餅店「李亭香」、烏魚子名店「李日勝」；新進駐的店家則有販售在地食材的「大稻埕259」、生活風格品牌「蘑菇」與創作者基地「URS155 團圓大稻埕」等。
12:30 在「聯藝程」裡以台灣食材入味的歐亞料理「孔雀」用餐，或走到永樂市場附近享用各式小吃，私心推薦「永樂米苔目」與民樂街上的「紅燒土托魚羹」。
14:00 不管單身與否，都來「霞海城隍廟」跟月老祈求感情順利吧！接著穿梭各式小店、茶館、咖啡館進駐的「民藝埕」、「眾藝埕」與「小藝埕」，再去「印花樂」採買印花布紀念品。
16:00 喜愛獨立刊物的你請直接搭車前往「下北?世代」，更愛老街風情的朋友這裡還有許多老建築和小店值得探險。
17:30 沒事來「龍山寺」拜拜保平安，有事可跟觀音菩薩求籤解惑。
18:30 晚餐就在艋舺老街吃傳統小吃，「蘇家肉圓油粿」、「兩喜號魷魚羹」等任君挑選，吃完到「龍都冰果室」來碗甜蜜水果冰。
19:30 散步到貴陽街，吃一球古早味的「永富冰淇淋」，繼續前往西本願寺廣場，在「八拾捌茶」喝杯暖心的台灣花茶。
20:30 日治時期曾是庶民市場的古蹟「西門紅樓」，如今成為文創基地，一樓商場有許多新興品牌進駐，紅樓後方是著名的同志露天酒吧區。
22:00 去「Woolloomooloo」西門店或隱身大稻埕老屋的「Mikkeller Taiwan」續攤；更free style一點的推薦啤酒攤車「Beer Cargo」，或買瓶台啤去天橋上開喝，望著中華路車流回味今日的新舊台北之旅。
Note:
‧ 此條路線涵蓋範圍較廣，可租借uBike方便移動。
‧ 沿途有許多老建築與故事值得探索，若想更深入了解可參加Taipei Walking Tour固定舉行的大稻埕導覽。http://www.taipei-walkingtour.tw/
‧ 近幾年大稻埕七夕時固定舉辦煙火節，若剛好在這時間造訪別錯過囉！
9:00 Visit the row of old eateries in front Tsu Sheng Temple for good, straightforward food. Savor a bowl of meat congee or pork knuckle with noodles under banyan trees and enjoy a leisurely Chinese style breakfast known only to the people of Taipei.
10:00 Head to the century-old tea shops such as Lin Hua Tai or Lin Mao Sen for good teas that make for good gifts.
11:00 Start from the northern end of Dihua Street and make your way down. Visit Li Ting Xiang, a longstanding pastry shop, and stop by the renowned mullet roe specialty shop, Li Ri Sheng. Then check out new shops like Dadaocheng 259, who sells local ingredients, lifestyle brand Mogu, and creators’ base URS155 Tuan Yuan.
12:30 Go to Peacock, a restaurant located in ArtYard that incorporates Taiwanese ingredients into Eurasia cuisine, or walk to Yongle Market and find a variety of eateries in the area. I recommend Yongle Rice Paste Noodle and Fried Mackerel Soup located on Minyue Street.
14:00 Single or not, come to Xia Hai City God Temple and pray to Yue Lao for a happy love life. Work your way through the shops, tea houses, and cafes in the ArtYard buildings then head to inBlooom for printed fabric souvenirs.
16:00 If you enjoy independent publications, head straight to Shimokitazawa Generations. If you prefer to experience the charm of old streets, hang around the area; there is much that awaits you.
17:30 If all is well in your life, come to Longshan Temple and pray that you are kept safe; if not, pray to Guanyin for a fortune stick that may offer you guidance.
18:30 For dinner, explore the many traditional eateries along the old Monga streets, such as Su Family’s Meat Ball and Savory Rice Cake and Double Joys Squid Paste Soup. Conclude your meal with a bowl of sweet fruit with shaved ice at Longdu Ice Dessert Parlor.
19:30 Stroll to Guiyang Street, try the nostalgic flavors of Yongfu Ice Cream then head to the Nishi Hongan-ji Temple plaza and visit Rinbansyo for some Taiwanese herbal tea that will warm the cockles of your heart.
20:30 Once a market during the Japanese Ruling Era, the historic site of Ximen Red House is now an art and cultural space with many shops on the first floor. Behind Red House is a famous outdoor gay bar area.
22:00 Make the most of your day by going to Woolloomooloo’s Ximen branch or Mikkeller Taiwan, located in an old building in Dadaocheng. For the free-spirited ones, find a Beer Cargo or buy a bottle of Taiwan beer to enjoy on a bridge and reflect upon your day’s journey as the cars go by.
Note:
‧ This route covers a lot of ground so renting a uBike is a good option.
‧ There are many old buildings and stories along the way worthy of exploring. Taipei Walking Tour offers an in depth guided walking tour. For more information visit http://www.taipei-walkingtour.tw/
‧ In recent years, Dadaocheng started hosting a firework festival on Chinese Valentine’s (the seventh day on the seventh lunar month). Be sure to check it out if you’re around!
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